5:30 in the morning is just a horrific time to be awake. I
don’t care what timezone you’re in, pre-6 am is SLEEPING time. Still, we had to
catch an early train to Oxford,
so 5:30 am it was. Bleary-eyed, we raced to Paddington station, only to discover, naturally, that
our train was delayed. Sigh. Travelling is the worst. When we got to Oxford, it was still
early morning, and the town was quiet.
Oxford
is your typical college town, if your college is one of the oldest in the
Western world, and has
buildings from the 1400s. My college had Shaw Hall,
completed as temporary classrooms in the ‘50s, with leaky radiators. Not quite
as impressive. Oxford
near the train station is a lot of shops and restaurants, including a little
gem we saw called “Opium Den.” As you wind your way through the city, however,
these immense sandstone buildings. The one we stopped at first was the Bodleian Library.
The main room in the building housing the Bodleian is this bright
and enchanting, welcoming room. It was also recognizable, because it was the
filming location for the Hospital Wing in Hogwarts, as well as the room where
Yule Ball dance training took place. The room is incredibly detailed, as it
should be, because they worked on it for 60 years. There’s actually a part of
the carving that suddenly stops, either because they ran out of money, or
someone said they were done putting up with construction that lasts 60 years.
Puts any of your home construction projects in perspective, huh?
Another room of interest was the Oxford court. Apparently, if someone
associated with the university was arrested, they could request to be tried at Oxford. Oxford had its own justice, complete with its
jailers and prison. Oxford justice was swift,
and could be harsh, but there was no death penalty at Oxford,
so people who committed serious offenses could be safer at the Oxford court. Apparently the Oxford court is no more,
and students and faculty are now subject to the regular courts.
After leaving behind all our bags and any cameras or phones,
we were buzzed through security to go up into the proper library. Remember the
Harry Potter library? It was like that, only smaller, real, and with the most
amazing smell of old, leather books. There was even a chained book left as an
example for how all the books in the collection were once stored. Apparently, since
the chains were attached at the page side of the book, all books needed to be
put on the shelf spine-side in, which meant that people couldn’t read the
spines, so they had to draw numbers on the pages to differentiate them. This
seems like a long drawn out process that was replaced years later by just
having someone search the bags of leaving scholars.
There was no light or heat in the library, until 1967,
because fire was banned from the library. Apparently, the library would have a
steward who would ring a bell when he judge there was no longer enough sunlight
to read by. There was actually never a major disaster in the library, which is
pretty astonishing, though the collection was gutted by King Henry V, when he
left the church. The collection in that library room is the older and rare
texts. There are even two screened reading rooms that were once reserved for
the King and Queen. The collection is much, much larger, however. It’s included
in another building, the Radcliffe Camera, which we were also able to see, and
offsite. There are currently 11 million printed items. Yeah. Can you imagine
cataloging that? I guess that the Bodleian really ended up having the first
catalogue in the UK.
Right across the courtyard was the Radcliffe Camera, a
perfectly circular building that houses the more modern parts of the
collection. I guess it’s usually full of students, but they’re on holiday. It
was apparently the site of the celebration following the defeat of Napoleon
(the first time). What was really cool, though, was that the two buildings are
collected via two subterranean floors of book storage. I guess it used to be
really creepy and dark, but recently it was modernized. Readers could send
their requests for books via pneumatic tube to the library assistants. Then,
the assistants would put the requested books onto trolleys and send them out
via a track in the underground tunnels. It’s more modern, today, but the theory
is the same.
Before I left the Bodleian, I made my way through a
temporary display on Magical Books. They had original Tolkien drawings on
display, including one of the Owlamoo, a owlish creature Tolkien created to
help his son get over his fear of the one outside his bedroom window. There
were original manuscript pages from C.S. Lewis and Phillip Pullman. There was
also a model alethiometer from His Dark Materials that I desperately wanted.


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